Oaxaca, part two

After our mezcal-induced sleep, we woke up the next morning to go on a free walking tour of Oaxaca. We have done these in Valladolid and San Cristóbal de las Casas and they are a really good introduction to a city. The guides are incredibly knowledgeable and will speak not only about the city's history but also politics and art. As well as popping into the Templo Santo Domingo to see and hear about the incredible gold decoration, we also went into a weaving business where the owner was using a loom to make traditional cotton covers. One of the most interesting stops was at an artists' collective that makes political art, including for protests and in support of indigenous rights.

The tour also went to the Instituto de Artes Graficas de Oaxaca. The institute, which also includes a library, workshops and performance space, is in a large traditional house almost opposite the Templo Santo Domingo, which was donated by the Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo. Toledo was an artistic powerhouse who was committed to social justice causes - he instigated and led the protests that stopped the Oaxacan government from flattening parts of the historic centre, he was opposed to outposts of globalisation such as McDonalds from setting up shop in Oaxaca, and he supported indigenous causes including through his art. Toledo died while we were in Oaxaca and the street outside the Instituto was crammed with people coming to pay their respects. Gigantic wreaths from individuals and institutions lined the wall of the building.

While walking around the city, we twice saw something that is very specific to Oaxaca. Called calendas, these are giant "puppets" - really a person inside a 4-metre-tall person costume - that lead a celebratory parade. The two we saw were to celebrate recent architecture graduates and something to do with increased productivity. Both parades had brass bands, and the second parade (for productivity) also had traditional dancers: women whirling with flowers and men in slightly terrifying costumes of colourful rag fronds and hessian masks.

We also visited the Centro de Abastos - a ridiculously large market on the outskirts of the centre. A fire-hazard warren of small alleys and lanes between stalls piled high with fruits, vegetables, fresh chicken, hunks of beef, tortillas, wooden furniture, crockery, shoes, honey - it's probably easier to list what you can't get in the market. Everyone is busy getting on with their business of selling their wares so there's no hassle as you walk around.

Having three days in Oaxaca made me realise that we probably needed probably two or three more, especially to go to two famous sites outside the city: Monte Alban (Zapotec pyramids) and Hierve de Agua (calcified waterfall with swimming pools). And that's before you even factor in time to visit the villages that specialise in mezcal, weaving or other crafts.